You are bidding on 10+ rare Dutch Bantam fertile hatching eggs.

I have a small flock of Light Brown Dutch Bantam chickens.
I keep them around just for yucks and the “Hillbilly Ambience” that they bring to the back yard.
Quite frankly, I find them to be beautifully colored birds, and I enjoy that “Little Red Rooster” look that they have to them.

I have been working on establishing my flock for 3 seasons now, and I am very happy with the quality of the birds in my pens. (Note: I do not claim in anyway that they are show quality). I have not shown birds myself for over two decades now. However, I acquired my foundation birds from the pens of a 4H member who was very serous about his 4H project. I have been selectively breeding and culling from his established bloodline.

The breed is gorgeous (just look at my pictures). Dutch Bantams are difficult to find in my neck of the woods. The breed is a TRUE bantam, meaning they are naturally small and were NOT bred down from a standard version. They were originally developed in the Netherlands where they were prized for their hardiness as well as the fact that they are decent layers for their size. They are gentle birds that do well in confined spaces (like chicken tractors). They would make a great choice for your “Urban Chicken Project”!

HERE'S A TIP: If you are custom hatching eggs and selling chicks or mature birds at your local poultry swap, you will find DUTCH BANTAMS to be an excellent addition to your product line! Due to A) their rarity, B) their gorgeous "Little Red Rooster" appearance, C) their small size, Dutch Bantams make for an easy impulse sale at your local swap meet. A display of several mature Dutch Bantams draw crowds and sell chicks at the sales. My personal experience is that my Dutch Bantams are an asset in helping defray some of the expenses of my poultry hobby.

Dutch Bantams come in a number of color varieties. Look them up on the internet. The color of my birds is called Light Brown. Not a very creative name, but it is the correct one. It is similar to the Light Brown color in Leghorns. I think that If they were Old English, they would go by Black Breasted Red (BB Red). This color is well established in the Dutch Bantam breed and is recognized by both the American Poultry Association and the American Bantam Association.

I apparently have some Cream Light Brown Dutch genes in my flock. I occasionally will throw a Cream colored Dutch here and there. Since I prefer the Light Brown variety, I have been culling the Cream Light Brown birds from my flock…..with the exception of one particular rooster that my adult daughter took a strong liking to. I have included a couple images of him to give you an idea of what that color looks like, since it might crop up in some of the eggs that you purchase from me. My daughter tamed “ChePee” to ride on her shoulder like a parrot, and he has kind of grown on me too!

I keep my birds in a tight ration of 1 rooster for every 3 hens, so as you can imagine I get EXCELLENT fertility. My daughter’s Cream Light Brown Dutch is not allowed near my Light Brown hens. Your eggs will come from birds exhibiting the Light Brown observable phenotype. The Light Brown Dutch Bantams in my images are the parents of your eggs.

If your kids are in 4H or if you are just looking for some small gentle chickens around the homestead, I believe that Dutch Bantams might be your ticket. And the fact that they are good layers for a Bantam breed is a definite plus!

I have shipped eggs through the mail many times before. So I know how to pack them in order that they arrive in one piece. But as extra insurance for you, I will include an extra egg (or two if the girls cooperate) to cover the possibility of unforeseen damage in the mail. If the unthinkable does happen, contact me immediately. You will find me a very reasonable person to deal with and I will try hard to work things out for you.

It is important that you pay for your eggs QUICKLY after the auction ends. It is in YOUR best interest that I get the eggs in the mail as soon as possible. Remember that you will need to let the eggs set pointy side down for 24 hours BEFORE placing them in your incubator.

A NOTE ABOUT INCUBATORS: I have used various models over four decades of hatching eggs on and off. Still air units to models with fans. Table top models to expensive cabinet ones. Waffers to electronic thermostats. Turned ‘em by hand myself, used automatic turners, even let broody hens do the hard labor. You name it. All methods have pros and cons, and EVERYBODY has an opinion about what works best. The one thing I do know is that I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER YOUR INCUBATOR OR YOUR HATCHING PRACTICES. So please leave feedback based on the condition of the eggs at arrival and my communications dealing with your order. I can not be held responsible for your hatch.

A NOTE ABOUT SHIPPING EGGS IN THE MAIL: It is always better to buy your fertile hatching eggs locally and handle them yourself. However, this is not always possible. I have on occasion, had to turn to the internet to find the exact breed, color, or variety of bird that I am looking for. There are always added risks involved in this. The biggest obstacle is The United States Postal Service. It is not necessarily that the eggs arrive broken, but that they arrive SHAKEN. I will clearly mark your eggs as FRAGILE HANDLE WITH CARE. However much of today’s modern postal service is operated through the use of machines, conveyances, and automated conveyor belts. Those machines do not read the warning labels.

The biggest risk to your eggs is the formation of “saddle air sacks” due to too much shaking going on. Research this on the internet and you will find that saddle sacks can allow the embryos to develop, but cause difficulty with hatching due to the transition between deriving oxygen from the yolk sack to breathing with their lungs at the time of the hatch.

However, having said that, I personally have shipped many eggs through the mail system and had what I consider reasonable and expected hatch rates. As a matter of fact, I am happy to own some very rare chickens that I would have NEVER been able to obtain locally. For this I owe my thanks to the USPS.

I would encourage you to have your eggs held at the Post Office for Pick UP. This eliminates the final delivery leg in a hot/cold or over packed mail truck. If you would like, I can mark your eggs HOLD AT POST OFFICE FOR PICK UP. Just include your phone number and a note with these instructions with your PayPal payment. NOTE: it is important that during the Winter season, that you pay attention to the weather conditions in your area BEFORE bidding on my hatching eggs. Winter storms and predicted temperature forecasts must be taken into consideration BEFORE bidding. If conditions warrant on my end, I will surround your eggs in Styrofoam and/or include a heat pack to protect these delicate live embryos. Beyond that I can not be responsible Winter shipping variables.

NOTE ABOUT WINTER/EARLY SPRING EGG AVAILABILITY: Although I sell and ship hatching eggs year round (been doing it for years), there is always an increased interest in eggs when Spring truly kicks in and the weather turns nice again. Many folks look to set eggs during this season and postpone their egg purchases until the buds appear on the trees.

Please realize that this might not only be your thought process, BUT IT IS MINE ALSO! That is when I will be excitedly re-firing up my GQF Sportsman 1502 incubator and setting eggs for my own 2020 hatching season.

In past years, I have found that right about the time egg demand and auction bidding gets rocking, is EXACTLY the time that I have fewer eggs available to offer for sale to the public.

You know what they say about the Early Bird and the Worm thing…..

Consequently, in order to avoid disappointment, it might be prudent for you to seriously consider my Winter/Early Spring egg auctions while the getting’ is good. Just sayin’…..sider my Winter/Early Spring egg auctions while the getting’ is good. Just sayin’…